The earth has turned and winter fades away. Springtime is not just butterflies
and bumblebees, warm weather and barbeques. Springtime is cleaning time. Furniture
is the third largest investment we make, following homes and autos. Proper care
and conditioning of furniture will insure that the furniture lasts. So, get the
kids off the video game or out of bed and get to spring-cleaning with these simple
tips for leather and wood furniture. Remember; above all else (after you’ve
checked with the manufacturers recommendations,) have fun.
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Leather cleaning and
conditioning (click here)
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Wood furniture cleaning (click here)
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Wood furniture conditioning (click here)
…
When the controversial comic strip “Doonsbury” left
the Washington Post, “Bloom County” took its place?
… Sweden
had the first ski-through McDonalds?
… New Mexico on average has 283
days of sunlight in a year?
Don’t forget to set your clock forward one hour before you go to bed
Saturday night. Except in Arizona, where it’s always standard time.
Benjamin Franklin conceived the ‘Daylight saving’ idea in 1784
while in Paris. Spurred by a London builder, the idea gained momentum in
England. England experimented with various forms of daylight saving, but
most resulted in confusion. America waited until World War I before trying
it out, in a successful attempt to conserve resources. After the war, America
went back to standard time, much to the dismay of farmers and agricultural
states. Most Americans disdained the idea. During the Second World War, President
Roosevelt signed a bill called “War Time” to conserve oil for
the war effort. Again, after the war, America went back to Standard time.
Farmers continued to lobby for daylight saving time and many agricultural
states continued adjusting their clocks in March – why waste sunlight.
This caused a lot of confusion for those traveling between states. Fed up
with all the bickering over a silly hour of sunlight, President Johnson ended
the argument when he signed the “Uniform Time Act” in 1966. It
took nearly two hundred years for a simple and effective economic idea to
accepted. Just goes to show that Benjamin Franklin was ahead of his time,
by one hour.
The proper spelling and pronunciation is Daylight saving
time – not
Daylight savings time. There is no “s” in either word.
Leather furniture is quite simple to maintain. The process of tanning a leather
hide insures a long life with minimal care. Dusting frequently is vitally
important. A vacuum cleaner or feather duster is recommended and should be
done a few times a week.
The following recommendation is for all leather except
suede and nude leather.
Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Use a clean, white cotton
cloth (like an old t-shirt.)
Dip cloth in warm water and wring out.
Cloth should be moist, not dripping.
Test in an inconspicuous area.
- Wipe lightly following the grain of the leather.
- Wipe again with a dry, white cotton cloth.
Use the conditioner of your choice,
which you can get from your local furniture dealer. Condition the leather
every six months. If you live in
an arid area, you should condition every three months. As mentioned earlier,
always consult the manufacturers recommendations first.
Depending on weather conditions, cleaning and conditioning should be done
at least twice a year, the drier the weather conditions you live in, the
more often (3-4 time a year) you should condition.
Always consult with manufacturer’s
recommendations first.
Use wood furniture cleaner such as Endust or Pledge.
Don’t spray onto furniture.
Use a clean, white lint free cotton cloth and spray cleaner directly
onto clothe.
Polish in a circular motion until clean and furniture glows.
Before conditioning, you must know the finish. You are conditioning the finish. There are two types of wood finishes: soft oil finish and hard finishes which are either clear, lacquer, shellac, varnish or polyurethane/polyester. There is a simple way to determine your finish. Rub a few drops of boiled linseed oil using a cloth on a small-unseen area, if absorbed, you have a soft oil finish. If it beads, you have a hard finish.
For soft oil finishes use oil from your local furniture dealer, such as Teak or Lemon Oil. Citrus (orange) Oil is quickly becoming popular for it’s ease of use, luster and scent. Test first in a small unnoticeable area, if you notice a change in the color and or finish, stop and consult a professional. Use cheesecloth, buffing in a circular motion until completely dry and the finish has a supple sheen. Work one small area at a time, overlapping as you go.
For hard finishes you can use a paste wax, aerosol or liquid polish as well as select the gloss you prefer. Choose one type of polish and stick with it, mixing will dull the finish. If you want a high gloss, use paste waxes, aerosols or liquid polishes with silicon. For a satin or low gloss, use a cream or liquid polish without silicon. Paste waxes created the highest gloss, requiring more hard work but fewer applications. Aerosols and liquids are much easier to use, but need more applications and silicones build up over time. Silicones are difficult to remove should you want to refinish in the future. Don’t put the conditioner directly on the furniture; instead apply to a clean, white cotton cloth. Rub in a circular motion, one small are at a time, overlapping as you go. With paste waxes, you must rub vigorously in a circular motion, then use cheesecloth to polish and remove excess wax. Remember to dust several times a week with an absorbent, lint free white cotton cloth or feather duster.
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